Emporio reinvents classics, Dolce&Gabbana courts millennials

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COURTING MILENNIALS

Dolce&Gabbana have one-upped themselves, moving the young millennial crowd that has populated their front row in recent seasons onto the runway.

Pop star Austin Mahone, dapper in a tux with tapered legs, set the mood, dancing up and down the runway throughout the show, making the moves on the ladies, who included Sylvester Stallone’s three daughters.

Dolce&Gabbana’s show was titled “The New Princes” and it’s clear that they are catering to a young, selfie-savvy generation bred on social media. In an ultimate branding move, the designing pair created a pair of faceQ app-like images of themselves on jackets and sweaters.

Alongside the brand’s trademark tailored suits, the new collection includes zany plush animal head hoods or backpacks, and Rasta knit hats or crowns over baseball caps, fun-loving Harajuku touches for a generation that prizes its juvenile side. Jeans and jackets were covered with appliques, with royal motifs from crowns to hearts emerging as decorative emojis.

The collection was a furious display of graphic prowess with humanized animal motifs alongside the brand’s typical religious imagery. It was as breathless as the new generation star power on the runway.

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CLASSICS REINTERPRETED

Giorgio Armani has reinterpreted classics through the decades with a modern edge for his youthful Emporio Armani line.

Armani is hewing to the traditional menswear and womenswear calendars, but blurring the line on the runway.

Many of the looks were feminized, like flowing knitwear or curved hemlines on short jackets. Trousers tended to be ample and pleated, and Armani employed luxurious fabrics like velvets for men and lots of fur, both as trim and full fur coats.

Double-breasted suits with soft helm-lines and loose trousers recalled a 1940s cool, while fur collars on overcoats harkened to a 1970s mod.

Armani mixed geode-like patterns with plaids, sticking with grey scale to black for a contemporary urban feel. Thick, furry neck warmers framed the face, while moulded brim hats topped the sophisticated silhouette.

Hair was slicked back and footwear had thick traction soles. Bags included big pockets on cross-body halters. The colour palette was classic: grey, black, tan and olive green.

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MONUMENTAL LOOKS

Alessandro Sartori made his debut Friday evening as the creative director of Ermenegildo Zegna in a monumental style, sending his creations down a runway flanked by Anselm Kiefer’s towering installation of The Seven Heavenly Palaces at Pirelli’s cavernous Hangar Bicocca.

The looks exuded relaxed sophistication, as tailoring altered sportswear, or vice versa. Or, as the brand said in its press notes, Sarotori’s “new esthetic … evolves and breaks codes, relying on intense textures and keen constructions that define new functions.”

Elasticized cuffs on trousers and gathers on jackets created an active feel on looks that were completed with sneakers. Felted cashmere suits had the simplicity of jersey, with quilted arms in contrast colours to create a vest effect over kimono neckline shirts.

Nubby Casentino felt from Tuscany was created from cashmere and alpaca, suggesting ease but underlining elegance in loose-fitting suits. Cozy accents included high necks, big gloves and droopy caps.

Colours tended toward grey, tan and black neutrals while turquoise and white popped up on leather jackets and large knits.

Colleen Barry, The Associated Press

by Canadian Press

Emporio reinvents classics, Dolce&Gabbana courts millennials

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